Pacman frogs, also known as Horned Frogs, are popular pets due to their unique appearance and relatively easy-care requirements. Named after the video game character Pac-Man, these frogs have large mouths and even bigger appetites. Here’s everything you need to know to keep your Pacman frog happy and healthy!
Habitat & Husbandry
Enclosure: A 10–20-gallon tank is suitable for one adult Pacman frog. However, I am an advocate for bigger is always better. Your frog will use the extra space if you give them a 20-gallon. Females get quite a bit larger than males, so they would likely need 20 gallons minimum. I personally house my juvenile frog, Bilbo, in an ExoTerra 18″x18″x12″.
Substrate: Use a moisture-retaining substrate like coconut fiber, while avoiding gravel or small particles that can be ingested. These frogs love to burrow, so make sure you give them at least 4 inches of substrate!
Temperature: There should always be a warm side and a cool side in any enclosure. The warm side is going to be where your halogen heat lamp is positioned. I recommend the Arcadia 50W Halogen Bulb hooked to a thermostat. The warm end should be between 78-82 degrees, and the cool side should be 70-75 degrees. If the temperature reaches above 85 degrees, your frog could perish. This is why it is so important to regulate temperature with a thermostat!
Humidity: Keep humidity levels between 60-80%. Mist the enclosure daily using dechlorinated water. Provide a shallow water dish for them to sit in, but make sure the water is not deep enough that it covers their mouths.
Lighting: While Pacman frogs don’t necessarily need UVB, there is research that shows it is helpful for all reptiles and amphibians. I would highly recommend getting UVB for your new friend, as a lack of this lighting could lead to Metabolic Bone Disease. It does not have to be very strong, especially if you have an albino frog, so a 5.0 ReptiSun or 2% Arcadia Bulb would be great. Also, remember that UVB bulbs do need to be switched out every 6-12 months, as they lose effectiveness over time.
Feeding & Supplements
Diet: Feed your frog a variety of insects such as crickets, dubia roaches, and cut-up nightcrawlers. Although you can feed them other things, I recommend rotating through these healthy options!
Feeding Schedule: Juveniles should be fed daily to every other day, while adult frogs should be fed once or twice a week. I recommend using tongs to feed these guys, as they may get a mouthful of substrate hunting, which is not good for them.
Supplements: Dust your frog’s food with calcium at every feeding. Whether you dust with or without D3 will depend on whether you decide to use a UVB light. If you go that route, always dust without D3. If you dust with D3 while also having UVB, it could lead to an overdose. Dust every week with a multivitamin to keep them as healthy as possible.
Health & Maintenance
Cleaning: Spot clean the enclosure daily and do a full substrate change every 1-2 months. This is if you are not setting up your frog’s enclosure bioactively. You can learn how to set up your enclosure bioactively here!
Health Issues: As with any animal, watch for signs of illness such as lethargy, loss of appetite, or skin abnormalities. Consult a vet experienced with amphibians if needed.
Enrichment & Handling
Hiding Spots: Provide plenty of hiding spots using logs, plants, and hides. They will be more likely to move around if there is some clutter and shade!
Handling: Avoid handling your Pacman frog unless absolutely necessary, as our hands can damage their skin. If you need to do so to clean their enclosure or gently move them somewhere safe, wet your hands or wear rubber gloves to prevent damaging their sensitive skin.
Pacman frogs are fascinating and relatively low-maintenance pets, making them ideal for college students. They don’t require a lot of time or space, which is perfect for us busy students! With proper care, they can live up to 10 years. Happy frog keeping!
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