Amazon Milk Frog Care Guide

Amazon milk frogs are popular pets because of their striking appearance and manageable care requirements. They are known for their distinctive blue and white patterns, but these frogs are not only beautiful but also fairly easy to care for. Here’s everything you need to know to keep Amazon milk frogs happy and healthy!

Habitat & Husbandry

Enclosure: An 18″x18″x24″ is the minimum for a pair of Amazon Milk Frogs, but they would love an 18″x18″x36″. You can even successfully keep a group of four in an 18″x18″x36″!

Substrate: Use a moisture-retaining substrate, as these frogs love high humidity. Coconut fiber is a good option, but I recommend Josh’s Frogs BioBedding. It is my absolute favorite. I use his substrates for all of my reptile and amphibian enclosures, which work wonderfully.

Temperature: Any enclosure should always have a warm side and a cool side. The warm side is going to be where your halogen heat lamp is positioned. I recommend the Arcadia 50W Halogen Bulb hooked to a thermostat. The warm end should be between 78-82 degrees, and the cool side should be 70-75 degrees. If the temperature reaches above 85 degrees, your frog could perish. This is why it is so important to regulate temperature with a thermostat!

Humidity: Keep humidity levels between 60-80%. Mist the enclosure daily using dechlorinated water. Provide a large, shallow water dish at the bottom of the enclosure!

Lighting: While these nocturnal frogs don’t necessarily need UVB, there is research that shows it is helpful for all reptiles and amphibians. I would highly recommend getting UVB, as a lack of this lighting could lead to Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). It does not have to be very strong, so a ReptiSun T5 5.0 or 2% Arcadia Bulb would be great. Also, remember that UVB bulbs do need to be switched out every 6-12 months, as they lose effectiveness over time!

Feeding & Supplements

Diet: Feed your frog a variety of insects such as crickets, dubia roaches, and mealworms. Their primary diet in the wild is crickets, so I would recommend these as a staple in captivity. Although you can feed them other things, I recommend rotating through these healthy options!

Feeding Schedule: Juveniles should be fed daily to every other day, while adult frogs should be fed once or twice a week. I recommend using tongs to feed these guys.

Supplements: Dust your frog’s food with calcium at every feeding. Whether you dust with or without D3 will depend on whether you decide to use a UVB light. If you go that route, always dust without D3. If you dust with D3 while also having UVB, it could lead to an overdose. Dust every week with a multivitamin to keep them as healthy as possible.

Health & Maintenance

Cleaning: Spot clean the enclosure daily and do a full substrate change every few months. This is if you are not setting up your frog’s enclosure bioactively. You can learn how to setup your enclosure bioactively here!

Health Issues: As with any animal, watch for signs of illness such as lethargy, loss of appetite, or skin abnormalities. Consult a vet experienced with amphibians if needed.

Enrichment & Handling

Decoration: Provide plenty of climbing opportunities, as these are arboreal tree frogs! They love to climb and will use all of the space, branches, and perches that you give them.

Handling: All amphibians are more of “look but don’t touch” animals, so avoid handling your frogs unless necessary. Amazon milk frogs are a hardier species, so if you do need to handle them to clean their enclosure or move them somewhere safe, they will be okay! I recommend wetting your hands or wearing rubber gloves to prevent damaging their sensitive skin.

Amazon milk frogs are fascinating and relatively low-maintenance pets, making them ideal for beginners to amphibians. They don’t require a lot of time or space! With proper care, they can live up to 10 years. Happy frog keeping!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *