Pacman frogs, also known as Horned Frogs, are popular pets due to their unique appearance and relatively easy care requirements. Named after the video game character Pac-Man, these frogs have large mouths and even bigger appetites. Here’s everything you need to know to keep your Pacman frog happy and healthy!
Habitat Setup
Enclosure: A 10-20 gallon tank is suitable for one adult Pacman frog. However, I am a huge advocate for bigger is always better. Your frog will use the extra space if you give them a 20-gallon. Females get quite a bit larger than males, so they would likely need 20 gallons minimum.
Substrate: Use a moisture-retaining substrate like coconut fiber. Avoid gravel or small particles that can be ingested. These frogs love to burrow, so make sure you give them at least 4 inches of substrate.
Temperature: There should always be a warm side and a cool side in any enclosure. The warm side is going to be where your heating lamp or mat is positioned. The warm end should be between 78-82 degrees, and the cool side should be 70-75 degrees. If the temperature reaches above 85 degrees, it could lead to death. Turning the heat off at night is recommended, as a drop in heat is good for their metabolisms!
Humidity: Keep humidity levels between 60-80%. Mist the enclosure daily using dechlorinated water. Provide a shallow water dish for them to sit in, but make sure the water is not deep enough that it covers their mouths.
Lighting: While Pacman frogs don’t necessarily need UVB, there is research that shows it is helpful for all reptiles and amphibians. I would highly recommend getting UVB for your new friend. It shouldn’t be very strong, especially if you have an albino frog, so 5.0 would be great. Also, remember that UVB bulbs do need to be switched out every 6 months to a year, as they lose effectiveness over time.
Feeding
Diet: Feed your frog a variety of insects such as crickets, roaches, and cut-up nightcrawlers. Although you can feed them other things, I recommend rotating through these healthy options.
Feeding Schedule: Juveniles should be fed daily to every other day, while adult frogs should be fed once or twice a week. I recommend using tongs to feed these guys, as they are not quick enough to hunt. Also, they may get a mouthful of substrate if not tong-fed, which is not good for them.
Supplements: Dust your frog’s food with calcium at every feeding. Whether you dust with or without D3 will depend on whether you decide to use a UVB light. If you go that route, always dust without D3. If you dust with D3 while also having UVB, it could lead to an overdose. Dust every week with a multivitamin to keep them as healthy as possible.
Health and Maintenance
Handling: Avoid handling your Pacman frog unless absolutely necessary, as our hands can damage their skin. If you need to do so to clean their enclosure or gently move them somewhere safe, wet your hands or wear rubber gloves to prevent damaging their sensitive skin.
Cleaning: Spot clean the enclosure daily and do a full substrate change every 1-2 months. This is if you are not setting up your frog’s enclosure bioactively. My blog will be posting an article soon about what bioactive enclosures are and how to set them up, so stay tuned!
Health Issues: As with any animal, watch for signs of illness such as lethargy, loss of appetite, or skin abnormalities. Consult a vet experienced with amphibians if needed.
Enrichment and Interaction
Hiding Spots: Provide plenty of hiding spots using logs, plants, and hides. They will be more likely to move around if there is some clutter and shade!
Observation: Pacman frogs are more of a “look but don’t touch” pet. It’s very fun to watch their interesting behaviors and eating habits, but don’t get a Pacman frog if you want a pet you can handle.
Pacman frogs are fascinating and relatively low-maintenance pets, making them ideal for college students. They don’t require a lot of time or space, which is perfect for us busy students! With proper care, they can live up to 10 years. Happy frog keeping!
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